For those of us lucky enough to have traveled a bit, and especially having traveled in France, we know there is no shortage of incredible sights. The Roman ruins in Arles, the Chateaux in the Loire Valley, the picturesque atmosphere of Annecy. But one could make the argument that Èze stands alone.
Located in the south east corner of France, perched high on a cliff looking over the Mediterranean Sea, this medieval village is so incredibly beautiful and charming that one could stay home and send the camera out on its own, knowing that whatever was shot would be well worth seeing.
A Little History
The area surrounding Èze was populated well before the Roman Empire and even before the Roman Republic. One would have to travel further back to the building of the Great Pyramid of Giza in Egypt and the erection of Stonehenge on Salisbury Plain in England to put the first settlers in the correct time context, sometime around 2000 BCE.
Over the centuries, the area was occupied by the Romans, the Moors, then taken over by what was then the country of Provence around the end of the 10th century CE. At one point, the Principality of Monaco territory extended from Èze Village to Menton on the Italian border. At the end of the 14th century, the Italian House of Savoy took over the area, and built it into a fortified town, due to its close geographical location to Nice.
The following centuries saw the area passed between the French and the Turks. At the beginning of the 18th century, Louis XIV, le Roi Soleil (Sun King), destroyed the fortification walls.
Finally in the mid-19th century, a unanimous decision by the Èze residents made it officially part of France. Whew!
Geographic Location
The Èze commune is located between Nice to the west and the Principality of Monaco (Monte Carlo) to the east. The commune is made up of Èze Village at the top of the cliff, Èze-sur-Mer down at sea level, and connected in between by Saint-Laurent-Èze.
There are some other notable locations nearby. Beaulieu-sur-Mer is between Èze-sur-Mer and Nice, and was the location used by Michael Caine in the film Dirty Rotten Scoundrels for the center of his on-going scams. Extending from Beaulieu-sur-Mer out into the Mediterranean is the Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula, playground of the European aristocracy and the ultra-rich. In 2012, Cap Ferrat was named the second most expensive area to live in the world, only topped by nearby Monaco. It would be a great place for a vacation get-away, maybe in another life. 🙂
The Village
The Village of Èze is made up of winding streets and boutique shops. I would imagine in the height of tourist season, the streets are packed with tourists, given the magnificent views and the proximity of both Monte Carlo and Nice. Our visit happened late in the shoulder season, so we almost had the whole place to ourselves. It was a fast trip, between Paris and Florence, but well worth the stay.
I first heard about Èze while watching an episode of Passport to Europe with Samantha Brown. Up to that point, I was much more familiar with the larger cities in the area. But after that first introduction, I kept my eyes open and started to see more and more articles and mentions about Èze. When it came time to plan the train route from Paris to Italy, it became clear a stop-over point would be needed. Finally, my chance to experience this little village I’d started hearing so much about.
The Château de la Chèvre d’Or
I had reserved a room at the Château de la Chèvre d’Or, an incredible facility, with such a kind, helpful staff. Upon arrival, we were informed that we were getting an upgrade to an unbelievable suite, with gorgeous views over the Mediterranean. I can’t guarantee everyone will get the same treatment, but it all kind of came together for us.
For dinner, we wandered down and found a restaurant, Le Pinocchio, a casual atmosphere spot with a full menu. A few people were there, but again due to being late in the season, we were immediately welcomed and ushered to a table. About half way through our meal, a large group was seated close by. Our server informed us it was the mayor and city officials, obviously strategizing on how to make the village even more appealing. I’m guessing that conversation was a pretty short one, given the charm that already drenches the area.
I love so many areas in the southeast of France, so much to see and enjoy, but the next time I’m in the area, I absolutely have to make a point of returning to Èze Village, a fantastic experience.
